I'll be using a cutting method called stack cutting.This is done by stacking several pieces of wood together and cutting multiple portraits simultaneously.I begin by selecting the wood.For this project I'll be using two 1/8 " pieces of Maple plywood an one piece of 1/4 " Oak plywood.A few words on plywood vs. hardwood.-Plywood does NOT mean an inferior piece of art.One substantial advantage to plywood is recognized when cutting very intricate detail.Plywood is less susceptible to breakage when cutting,which could ruin an exquisite cutting.Hardwood is often used when the art will displayed unframed.Using plywood in an unframed piece would expose the edge of the core material.Some folks find this distracting.I find that in smaller thicknesses,even if left unframed, it doesn't grab your attention.Other advantages are cost factors.
In the photos below, you will see the wood I've selected for this rendition.The oak is the center piece.The wood has been cut to the desired size of the portrait.These will be 11 x 14 inches or 27.94 x 35.56 cm.
After sanding the wood, the next step is to stack and secure the wood pieces together.There are several ways to do this.I prefer the tape method,which is to place tape around the edges. I have found using the blue painters tape to be the easiest to use , especially when it's time to remove it.It doesn't adhere as strongly as regular masking tape, which can tear off in small pieces when you attempt to remove it.But it is strong enough for the task.
The photo below shows the wood stacked together.I left an area open in order to show the separate pieces of wood.I have placed the oak in the center layer.
Next, the entire surface of one side the wood stack is covered with the painters tape as shown in the next photo..This is the side that we will attach the pattern to. This allows for pattern removal without the use of chemical solvents.
Now we're ready to attach the pattern.Using a spray adhesive,lightly spray the back side of the pattern and wait approximately 15 seconds to allow the adhesive to become tacky.Center the pattern over the wood and apply one edge of the pattern to the wood.Lower the rest of the pattern onto the wood,smoothing it with your hand as you go.This will remove any bubbles.After you have the pattern in place,cover it completely with clear packing tape.Be sure to remove any air bubbles in the tape.Otherwise, as you cut , sawdust will accumulate under the tape and make it difficult to follow the pattern.Surprisingly the clear tape helps to lubricate the blade while cutting,which helps it cut easier and prevents burning the wood.The photo below shows the pattern attached and clear tape applied.
Next we have to drill our pilot holes which is how we get the scroll saw blade through the wood to cut the interior.
In the next photo you can see up close a section of the pattern.The area that is removed during the cutting is known as the "waste area". We will drill our pilot holes in this area. Most often, the waste area is shown in white.Unless stated otherwise on the pattern this will be the case.Occasionally a pattern may state to cut out the black or gray area.
Now drill all pilot holes in the waste (white ) areas.You can see a few holes already drilled in the next photo.
After the holes are drilled, it's off to the saw.In the next two photos you will see the blade we'll be using and the saw itself.(In the saw photo the yellow snorkel apparatus to the right isn't part of the saw.It's part of my dust collection system which works on vacuum pressure.The orange tape on top of the saw is to protect the switch from dust, which can shorten the lifespan of the switch.The switch is "constantly on" as I use a foot switch to operate the saw.The saw only operates when you press the pedal.)
Tomorrow, in part 2 we'll actually begin cutting the portrait.
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